Box of Treasures or Pandora's Box?

I have received so many emails and private messages from my last post, it is surprising! Mostly people are sharing back some aspect of their journey with me... it sparked memories and feelings from their lives and histories. It's wonderful. And it prompts me to carry on here.

I've had a little bit of time to reflect back on the last 20 years of my travels and my life. There is a box sitting on my bookshelf and it is filled with little treasures that I've collected over those years on my travels. It has occurred to me that I would like to find a special box to host these items. My first thought, seeing as I live on the west coast and call this home now,  was that it might be nice to have a bentwood box, crafted by a local artisan from a west coast First Nation. I've always loved and admired the concept and the craftsmanship and meaning, and I have photographed and drooled over more than I can count over the years. 

So I started looking online. The first stop naturally was to look to Lattimer Gallery but then I came across some other  interesting boxes on eBay. It seems that bentwood boxes are also a traditional art form made by craftspeople in Norway. I also happened to be looking through old family photos that afternoon, and one of my maternal grandmother was sitting out on the coffee table. Grandma was adopted, and we know very little about her background, other than her parents were far too young, and they were from Norway.  

What actually happened in Jordan is quite manageable. It's manageable because I have incredible friends there who helped me, the body heals, and I'll be fine. Jordan was one of the most remarkable trips I've had. I recommend it highly. 

What's really important for me to reflect on is what happened metaphorically, metaphysically, on that journey. A switch flipped. That physical experience I had opened an important pathway. While on holiday there I started to take a parallel journey inward... and now that I'm home, I can really start this new sojourn.

Something Happened in Jordan

This blog went to the wayside when I left the Maldives, partly because I stopped ‘being somewhere else from where I’m from’ and I returned to Canada, so the story stopped. I could have resurrected this blog, this story, to share aspects of my recent journey to Jordan. But I did not. I shared that through crumbs on instagram instead. And really, who cares. They are just travel photos. I took the same photos that everyone else does who goes there....

Something happened to me in Jordan. Something I was not expecting. It was life changing and somewhat profound and crushing yet strangely relieving, at least it was for me.  This came on the back of losing my dad this year and all the turmoil that goes with that. And of losing my love just before that (painfully) while I was trying to readjust to life in Canada. Of losing my past-mother-in-law just after dad passed, reminding me of yet another entire life lost and the sorrow that goes with that…

And then, of gaining! Gaining a permanent job to be proud of. Rare in my circles. Of being near my mom again after so many years and years away- having Christmas dinner together now instead of my baking yet another a sad chicken breast in the toaster oven over too much wine- alone somewhere with the Grinch on in the background.  I now feel a sense of home in my cute downtown Victoria apartment, junkies yelling under my window in summer, street lights changing from red to green to red to green, illuminating my face through the venetian blinds as I fall to sleep.  I love this town, Victoria. I could stay here. I never say that.

But something happened when I was in the promised land a couple weeks ago… the universe slapped my face back into place. I was reminded of our fragility as humans. Or at least my lot in life…. ‘Don’t get too comfortable’, the universe said. ‘You’re not meant for easy.’ So I'm looking to silver linings, and I am exploring what good can come of this. Stay tuned.

Looking Back on the field

I neglected this blog during my last months in Maldives- as I got rather busy. The day after my post ended with the RCO I had the great fortune to start a contract with UNOPS! It took me back to amazing Laamu atoll to monitor its community rainwater harvesting project under the much larger Low Emission Climate Resilient Development (LECReD) programme. I got to visit many islands and meet with councils and community and visit the water sites- from which I produced a 24page report chock full of photo illustrations (you can see a bit on my webpage laralhill.com). It was truly an honor to work with the UNOPS engineer, Saru, the most professional and gracious colleague. And just as that was finishing, I had the great fortune to work on yet another project for LECReD, a 32page publication on Lessons Learned for the entire programme implemented by 7 UN agencies. I am just finishing the last touches now and will post an exerpt on my website soon. The project took me back to Laamu one last time where I got to work with UNDP colleagues and get to know community members better. I am very grateful to Catarina and Shifaz for making this happen. And grateful to Huda for facilitating my earlier field visits. Looking back, I would say the field visits were the most impactful learning experiences for me during my time there.

One of the ladies featured in material shot for UNWomen book on Women and how they are adapting to climate change

Zuzu and I enjoyed a few stolen moments in our downtime. No need to mention the rainstorm on the motorbike....

A family portrait- single mom, daughters and grandchildren.

Mundhoo council president fondly remembers the support of the Canadian Red Cross after the tsunami. Went to his house for an enormous lunch following this photo and had a local specialty- tuna balls in a curry and kichikeya balls with coconut for desert.

Keeping up with my notes at every juncture- and Shifaz having a laugh at my Canadianess-- I'm a bit of a live 9Gag for him I think.

loading up on mashuni before starting the day

Posing for a selfie with the local kids in Isdhoo

did a lot of hefty eating in people's houses

Exhausted after a long hot day. Love the joalies.

One of my favorite days in Maldives in Maamendhoo.

I have never seen such thorough iphone documentation as what these two covered at a marine training course in Gan.

The only way to get around!

UN staff and Maamendhoo council

traveling in style. With class of course. Had fun with these two...

sampling banana papaya jam at the UNWomen display at the Laamu Climate Change Forum and Fair

Laamu atoll is just over an hour flight south of the capital, on the other side of the equator! I got a certificate for crossing the equator, thanks to Shifaz

Another all time favorite, night fishing with Nawal and UNOPS team in Hinnavaru

My colleague Azaf's little beauty melted my heart. I cant even remember what island this was now, but our missions crossed over here so I got a little squeeze in.

my first trip to Maamendhoo. I love how council makes the effort to greet visitors at the jetty, as well as see them off. Such a nice welcoming tradition in the islands.

at Maabaidhoo with council member

nothing like the wind in one's beard...

Mauroof, just before finishing his Masters project, just down the road from the UN Laamu office

Visiting the hospital in Kunahandhoo with Saru

madly downloading Saru's wisdom

Getting a ride from the Hithadhoo council president- I have great videos from two separate visits here, from my perch on his bike, flying down sandy trails to the island's salt water lake

Saru and me on the top of a buried stuppa in Isdhoo

In the Isdhoo council office

Friends made in Dhanbidhoo

lunching in Kalaidhoo

Trying to assemble my captures and notes at night in Gan

at a luncheon hosted by the RC in Gan for the Womens Development Committee

Made new friends on the street in Hinnarvaru. Couldn't turn down an invite inside for snacks to get out of the beating sun.

I am not sure how to express my gratitude or really describe how profound these experiences have been for my personal and professional life. These few pictures don't even scratch the surface of the things I saw or the number of amazing people I have met. There is no where on earth like Maldives- not just because of the immense natural beauty of the flora, fauna and sea, but because of the rare qualities of the people.

last day in the office...

My work colleagues have gone above and beyond to acknowledge that our six months have come to an end. What an incredible experience personally and professionally... It is really hard to express - but I feel humbled and warmed to the core by the hospitality and friendships I've formed here.

We have spent the last few days enjoying traditional Maldivian food, cakes (with chickpeas for the chickpea), majaa (fun! party in your mouth)... It's been so wonderful that I have decided to stay a little longer...

to Hinnavaru...

This is the main 'green' grown on the island.
Similar in texture to cabbage and served fresh with onion.

It is amazing what can happen in just a few short days. I was invited to join the UNOPS team on field mission to Lhaviyani Atoll, Hinnavaru island, where a contract was recently signed to develop a new integrated water system to help ensure the future of water security here. This is a partnership with USAID and will be subcontracted by Hitachi. Representatives from all stakeholder parties were present for a community consultation series and site visit before the build.

I came along to document the sites, events and to capture human interest stories with my camera. I shot well over 1000 images in two short days. 

This is a magical little island with around 4,000 inhabitants. The streets are smaller, more narrow and maze-like than other islands I’ve visited. The waste disposal system is honor-based and taken seriously. People separate and deliver their own refuse to a controlled area, keeping the island clean and well tended.

 I am continually blown away by Maldivian hospitality... not just by my friends and work colleagues, but by complete strangers. This young lady, Mary, invited me into her home off the street to see her roof-top view of the village and to meet her little girl. She shared some crispy snacks I saw ladies making in the street earlier in the morning. By the time I left, there was a gang of women who had dropped by to share a giggle and some selfies with me.

From back left to right: Nawal, UNOPS, Nihani, USAID SriLanka, clutching our stash of nuts
and Fazeeh, Ministry of Ag & Environment.

We were in Hinnavaru to work, and these folks work long, hard hours, but they also made time to play no matter how tired or how long the day. I was invited along on a night fishing trip with them, where I caught the first wee fish by moonlight, Fazeeh caught a shark, and Nawal caught the big one that fed us under the stars on a deserted island... On the second night we were invited to attend the reception of a wedding. By the end of the two days, Fazeeh pronounced me an honorary Maldivian (probably because I can pack away betel nut just as hard as Nawal), which frankly I found quite touching. I really felt a sense of belonging, and that is due in large part because of how generously they opened their hearts and friendship to me.

I am standing in front of the immaculate Grand Mosque, under a breadfruit tree.
Breadfruit is abundant and best served in thin deep fried slices.

The local food was simple and delicious.
We ate like kings, sharing a large home-cooked spread for lunch each day.